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"GroceryGetter!" - Lancer 1800 GTX (A175X.)
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Sanctifier
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PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2012 6:02 pm    Post subject: "GroceryGetter!" - Lancer 1800 GTX (A175X.) Reply with quote

WELCOME HOME! ...
BEFORE... "Donor Car" - Unwashed & unpolished.

Sanctifier wrote:
Yesterday, (1/05/12) I got a Lancer 1.4 EX Saloon (A172A) "parts-car" in "mint"... no, make that Bow Down "FANTASTIC" condition.

EVERYTHING works perfectly. Underneath is even better than the interior... (seriously.) The body-shell is like "NEW!"
Even the tyres (and ALLOY rims) are in VERY good condition. It's in MUCH better condition than the car that I drive now.

DAMN!... The bonnet... windscreen washer bottle... firewall and other parts still have the original Mitsubishi labels!
. . . . . . . . IT WAS BUILT IN 1983! . . . TWENTY-NINE (29!) YEARS AGO! . . . . . . . and the odometer still
only reads 92,098 km (57,227 miles) ... I may be wrong but seeing the overall condition... I BELIEVE IT!




The brown marks in the pix are dirt and sawdust (go figure!) ... NOT rust.
... It's a pity that I have to... CUT IT UP!... ... but I've been planning this "build" for over five years!
Sanctifier wrote:
FOR SALE!
Engine (G12B - 1400 cc)... (with A/C Compressor)... Cooling system... Exhaust system... Rear Axle (Diff)...
5-speed gear-box & Clutch... Front & Rear suspension & Brakes (incl. booster)... & Front & Rear Seats.

Why cut it up? ...
Sanctifier wrote:
Because like they say... "Gopaul luck eh Seepaul luck!"

No "phoney" License Plates... No "welding on" Chassis Numbers... No "swapped" firewall... NOTHING bogus for me.
No-no After investing so much TIME & $$$$ into it, I refuse to risk having it impounded by the Licensing Office!
Even worse! Unregistered Chassis = VOID INSURANCE! (& Driver's Permit!) = YOU MUST PAY ALL CLAIMS!! Head on Wall
Pointless trying to "dodge" Police road blocks or M.o.T. Inspections Pray FOREVER!, just to reduce the "build" time! Scary
IIRC there's a Lamborghini owner (Gopaul?) Laughing who has similar issues right now Banned ... Not me!.... I'll cut it up!
Yay!!! Instead of using inferior (thin guage) steel sheet to do "cut & patch" rust repairs; having a "mint" donor car allows me
to replace all the rusty panels in my Lancer 1800 GSR with OEM Mitsubishi panels...
Sanctifier wrote:
MAJOR BITS: "A" Pillars & Cowl... Parcel Shelf & Trunk Support Panels... Roof Panel (Mitsubishi Power Sun-roof Installation) etc.
MINOR BITS: Bonnet... Trunk Lid... Doors etc.

Sanctifier wrote:
GTX "Build" starts in Jan 2013... I have to get my Evo 6 RS2 back on the road first. It's been stored for almost five years, so... General Maintenance req'd:
Electrical & ALL sensors, belts, fluids, hubs, bearings, ball-joints... ALL from the UK! Then U.S. gearbox & LSD rebuild, tyres, etc. etc... $$$$
Rolling Eyes

Yup, it's a lot of work... and headaches Head on Wall ... but when I've finished (hopefully in +/- 36-42 months after *start up*) I'll have a...
"Brand New" LEGAL Lancer 1800 GSR (A175A)... or more accurately, a "new" Lancer 1800 GTX (A175X) Prototype. Cool

Why "GTX" instead of "GSR"?...
Wiki wrote:
Gran Turismo defined:

A "Grand Tourer" (Italian: Gran Turismo) (GT) is a high-performance luxury automobile designed for long-distance driving.
The most common format is a two-door coupé with either a two-seat or a 2+2 arrangement.

The term derives from the Italian phrase “Gran Turismo”, homage to the tradition of the grand tour, used to represent automobiles regarded as Grand Tourers, able to make long-distance, high-speed journeys in both comfort and style. The English translation is grand touring.

Grand Tourers differ from standard two-seat sports cars in typically being engineered as larger and heavier, emphasizing comfort over straight-out performance or spartan accommodations. Historically, most GTs have been front-engined with rear-wheel drive, which creates more space for the cabin than mid-mounted engine layouts. Softer suspensions, greater storage, and more luxurious appointments add to their driving appeal.
Sanctifier wrote:
Lancer 1800 GTX: Though the requisite amount of "bling" will be added to cater to fans of the "luxury" market; light weight and superior performance will not be sacrificed on the alter of luxury.

With much improved (lower) steering "lock" and sharper "turn-in", phenominal braking, increased adhesion, quicker acceleration and higher top speed; the performance enthusiast will be more than adequately satisfied.

This is a comfortable cruiser, a "GroceryGetter!"... not a "Road Warrior"... So give me a cutazz on the street... NO BIGGIE!...
With this one I'm more interested in "milage" than in "mph"...but you better be toting some heavy hardware...and feelin' REALLY lucky! Cowboy
If you win, I'll introduce you to my Evo 6 RS2 a.s.a.p! Twisted Evil ... STILL NOT ENOUGH?... There's always "The Clone!" Laughing

Link--> ~ Readers' Rides ~ (Page 2)

"X": ............ "Experimental" (Prototype)... It will be THE ONLY ONE OF IT'S KIND IN THE WORLD Exclamation ... IMHO that's VERY Cool

"GT": .......... Because it'll be quicker and faster (203 bhp) than a Lancer 1800 GSR (158 bhp) or even a 2.0L Lancer Turbo (177 bhp.)

"Comfort": . Noise: It must be QUIET!... Very little Noise, Vibration or Harshness!... I'm totally fed up with noisy, tiring "rides."
........................ FoamSeal and a whole lot of DynaMat, FatMat, Lizard Skin &/or 3M Body Shutz, should solve the problem.
..................... "Ride quality": Starion 2.6 = 1,375 kg./3,032 lb... Lancer Turbo = 1,075 kg/2,370 lb... Lancer GTX = 1,225 kg./2,701 lb. Question
......................... Based on OEM Mitsubishi Starion front & rear suspension... and with lower gross weight, I expect the ride to be comfortable...
......................... "Firm" (waterbeds are for the bedroom) but still VERY comfortable. No "teeth-rattling" needed here. Busted Smile
........................ I.C.E: The only "noise" needed is from a fully integrated, 7-9 speaker audio system. "Quality" sound, not quantity! Applause
........................ Air-conditioning: The above should go nicely with the climate control system from the 4wd 1800 GSR. Cool ... REALLY Cool

"Controls": . It must have a "soft" clutch pedal (for traffic)... i.e. A single-plate, sprung, organic clutch disk.
........................ Low steering lock (=/< 2.6 turns "lock-to-lock.")...

"Economy":. Chiptorque Xede "piggyback" ECU, to optimise "low-rpm" torque (for improved "flexibility".)
........................ NO excessive torque (to break drive-train parts OR needing a "super stiff" EXPENSIVE clutch & flywheel kit.)
........................ NO excessive power (i.e. No poor milage)...

"Reliability": The aim is to "OVER-ENGINEER" the project, using parts from larger models in the range to "build-in" added strength & reliability.
Sanctifier wrote:
e.g. A lighter 5-speed GSR gearbox and Mitsubishi 4-stud diff are available but the parts chosen are from an '89 US Mitsubishi Starion 'Widebody' weighing over 3,000 lbs.
Wider gears (stronger "teeth"), Thicker axles, HUGH LSD, 5-stud hubs... in a car weighing 400 lbs LESS... Weight Lifting You get the picture! Cool
......................... OEM Mitsubishi parts will be used almost exclusively.
......................... If "bought-out" parts are needed, 3rd party OEM parts will be substituted when necessary.
Sanctifier wrote:
Wherever possible, the components used will be "Heavy Duty" OEM parts to achieve the following goals:
TOTAL RELIABILITY... Ease (and infrequency) of Service & Maintenance Schedules... and Consistent "long-term" Replacement Parts supplies...

With "lightly stressed", heavy-duty parts and "moderate" performance targets, GroceryGetter hopes to be that "RARITY" in the "tuning world"...
A high-performance "daily driver" that actually "drives" on the street more than it "sits" in the workshop...

A driver's car that's truly "User friendly"... "Brilliant" to drive... "CHEAP TO OPERATE"... and FUN TO MAINTAIN!

"Safety": .... With Brembo calipers (front & rear) off an Evo 8...
........................ With more responsive, precise Power "Rack & Pinion" Steering...
........................ With 225/50x16" tyres on 16"x8" Mitsubishi Starion Rims... instead of 185/65x14" tyres...
........................ With a FoamSeal "roll-cage" (see pic.) = stiffer chassis = better handling AND better occupant protection.


Sanctifier wrote:
N.B. - There were no "Air-bags" in 1983, so whatever I do to improve occupant safety is Win!... WIN!



Why bother to do it?...
Sanctifier wrote:
IMHO the standard Lancer 1800 GSR is NOT ideal for quick, consistent driving.
When you add these issues...
Imprecise, lurid throttle oversteer...
Terminal understeer "at and beyond the limit" of tyre adhesion.
Constant brake fade...
Sloppy steering and "Turn-in" (with 3.xx turns lock-to-lock) Rolling Eyes

... the initial grin Twisted Evil starts to fade. Evil or Very Mad

BTW I have owned/driven FOUR Lancer EXs to date...
Sanctifier wrote:
1 x N/A Lancer 1.4 EX (Normally Aspirated.)
1 x N/A Lancer 2.0L EX (G63B + 5-speed.)
2 x Lancer 1800 GSR Turbo saloons... 1 with LSD and 1 without LSD.
... so while I'm no Makinen, my opinion on "Lancer handling" is formed from long-term use, driving different configurations of the same basic platform.

The main goals for GroceryGetter are to solve the steering, handling, and braking issues for more consistent handling and faster lap-times...
and what the hell... I'm doing it simply because NO ONE ELSE HAS EVER DONE IT BEFORE... ANYWHERE! Cool Laughing
Sanctifier wrote:
Mitsubishi Lancer 1800 GTX Specifications:

Engine .................. Mitsubishi 4G93 - 1.8L, DOHC, In-line 4-cylinder Turbo Motor.
.............................. 205 ps [151 kW (203 bhp)] @ 6,000 rpm / 275 Nm (203 lb.-ft.) @ 3000 rpm / Redline = 8,500 rpm.
.............................. Engine Upgrades: The following upgrades are planned for extended engine life and reliability.
.............................. RPW Forged con-rods... ARP Head Studs... ARP Con-rod Bolts.
.............................. RBR Ceramic coated Combustion chambers and Intake & Exhaust Ports.
.............................. The block will be bored/honed with an RBR Torque Plate.
.............................. FYI RBR... (Red Baron Racing)... is US! Laughing

Gearbox ............... Mitsubishi Starion 5-speed OR Mitsubishi Lancer 1800 GSR 5-speed. (both available.)
Drive-train ........... Mitsubishi Starion LSD, (3.545:1) with torque-tube and drive-shaft.

Steering ............... Mitsubishi Lancer 1800 GSR Power Steering-box swapped for Power "Rack & Pinion." (Model to be decided.)
..............................

Front Suspension . Mitsubishi Starion: MacPherson struts, coil-springs, telescopic dampers, anti-roll bar, Lower Control Arms.
.............................. .. "Hi-Caster" Top Spring Perches to reduce understeer.
Rear Suspension .. Mitsubishi Starion: Independent Rear Suspension - (This is the key to taming the "wild" throttle oversteer.)
.............................. MacPherson struts, coil-springs, telescopic dampers, "Trailing" A-Arms, anti-roll bar. Cool
..............................
.............................. Before ---------------------------> After!

Brakes .................. Mitsubishi Starion Rotors (ft. & rr.) - cross-drilled (unfortunately) & slotted.
.............................. Mitsubishi Evolution 8 Calipers - Front: 4-pot Brembo.
.............................. Mitsubishi Evolution 8 Calipers - Rear: 2-pot Brembo.
Handbrake............ .. Wilwood or Brembo Handbrake Calipers.
Rims & Tyres ....... Mitsubishi Starion 16" x 8" ET+18 / PCD xxx / 5-stud... Tyres: - 225/50 x 16"

"Bling!": ............... Mitsubishi Power "Slide &/or Tilt" Sun-roof - ex-4WD Lancer 1800 GSR (CM5A)
.............................. Mitsubishi Power Windows - ex-4WD Lancer 1800 GSR (CM5A)

Except for one "demo" unit, Mitsubishi Starions were not sold here; so parts are unavailable.
All Mitsubishi Starion parts (including the rear floor-pan) were sourced from a seller in California, via eBay... Wink

The crate is in Miami as we speak... EDIT: - On-board: Scheduled to arrive on 11-05-12... ARRIVED!.. Cool

Why not a 4G63?...
Sanctifier wrote:
Because the 4G93 is FREE! (ex-4wd Lancer 1800 GSR.)

Because the "4G63-into-box Lancer" swap has been "beaten to death" for nearly 25 YEARS! Rolling Eyes

Because IMHO the turbo on the 4G93 (Gen. 2) is finally on the correct side of the engine-bay... (just like the Gen. 2 4G63.)
. ie away from the hydraulic systems (brake master & clutch cylinders) to reduce "heat soak" and the risk of "brake fade."

Because I already have TWO Evo 6s with 4G63s. One for the street, the 2nd for AutoX/Track... I don't want a 3rd gas-guzzler!

Because a 4G93T will only need to "fill-up" at the pump ONCE A WEEK... maybe twice occasionally.
. A stock Evo usually has to "fill-up" TWO or THREE times a week!... MINIMUM! Rolling Eyes
. With more fuel price increases coming sooner rather than later Rolling Eyes , "low running cost" is VERY important to me!

Because a "stock" 4G93 will still give me 130+ mph... 0-60 mph in +/- 6.5 sec.... and hopefully, 35+ m.p.g. too.

Because a 4G93 revs to 8,500 rpm but still remains a lightly stressed, low boost (10 psi), RELIABLE engine, with GREAT milage.
Because T&T's "people" population = +/- 1.3 million... and it's "car" population = 700,000+ (05/12 Transport Commissioner.)
. With few import restrictions, sooner or later the M.o.T will put sanctions on daily usage... engine size... OR BOTH Exclamation
. If that happens, I prefer an 1800 cc "Daily Driver" to reduce possible punitive taxes.
. If they introduce a "Road Tax" on fuel again; I definitely want an economical 1800 cc car.

Because... "Damn sure better than cocksure" Exclamation

EDIT: - 2-10-2012: New price for "Premium Unleaded" = $5.75 / litre... up from $4.00 / litre (+ 44%)... I WAS RIGHT!... and more increases are ahead this year!

Up next... 1800 GSR (A175A) mounted on rotisserie for I.R.S. installation (AFTER the A172A "parts" sale.)


Then this lot...
Sanctifier wrote:
RESTORATION & UPGRADE SCHEDULE:

1st Build: Trial installation...
Install I.R.S.
Install engine, drive-train, suspension, brakes, wiring harness & "electronics".

Troubleshoot EVERYTHING!... and Test drive.

Remove ALL components and "strip" shell.

Media Blasting: (Baking Soda & Black Diamond), "Spot/Stitch-welding" (MIG), Rustproofing duties...

Then the actual (long, boring) Bodywork... FoamSeal... Seam sealing... Undersealing & Paint job can begin... Rolling Eyes

Final Assembly!


Stay tuned!...
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Last edited by Sanctifier on Sun Dec 22, 2013 10:18 am; edited 136 times in total
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Sanctifier
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PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2012 5:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sanctifier wrote:
It's designed, engineered and will be built by Red Baron Racing - (Hutch, Mitsu Power and yours truly)... All D.I.Y. and "ONE OF A KIND!" Cool

What more can I ask for in a "Daily Driver"? This is going to be more satisfying than the "real" Evo 6 RS2 project... By far!...
Only "The Clone" (Evo 6 TME RS with ACD) will be as much of a challenge!
Sanctifier wrote:
It will look like this with those Mitsubishi Starion 8Jx16" (front) rims all round... but in metalic silver/grey with black moulding (not red)... with the arches if still available.


My $0.02¢
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Last edited by Sanctifier on Wed Sep 19, 2012 10:04 pm; edited 4 times in total
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Sanctifier
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PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2012 10:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The "donor" car is so "straight" that I'm thinking of buying an HTP Spot-weld gun... and an HTP Spot Mill Gun to make the restoration as close to "perfect" as I can get.

Link--> HTP Spot Mill Gun.



Link--> Quick Spot II.



This will give you an idea of some of the steps involved...



Stay "Tuned."
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Last edited by Sanctifier on Fri May 25, 2012 2:37 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Sanctifier
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PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2012 10:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rooki 2nr in another Forum wrote:
why not do like the other box lancer fellas & cut out the chassis number & weld it above the shock tower of the donor car

FYI these are the current Regulations from the Transport Commissioner regarding this issue.
Check the date...


As I said, the Police & Licensing Office know... and they are already hunting for bogus cars.
Sanctifier wrote:
Not Me!... I can't afford that! I'll buy a mint bodyshell... cut it up!... and restore my ol' car properly without
screwing around with the firewall, chassis number or anything else that will put the legal Registration at risk.

Yup it will take MUCH longer before I get to drive it again... but then I get to keep my restored ol' car.
IMHO that's the ONLY guaranteed Win, WIN! option for 2nrs who want to restore their vintage iron.

Link--> "Bogus" Car Registration - Is it really worth it?

Proverb: "A word to the wise is sufficient!"...
Sanctifier wrote:
Idea While you're restoring your vintage ride the legal way (during the actual "build")... it's a VERY good idea to prepare a
hardcopy "BUILD" MANUAL (incl. scans of Invoices, spreadsheets etc.) Exclamation

... and then post the "build" highlights on the internet... (use pix & "embedded" YouTube video) on "Car Forums"...
"YouTube"... "Facebook"... "Twitter"... wherever!


You now have concrete evidence (that can be used in Court if req'd) TO PROVE that your ride was restored legally!

And to avoid some officious "peewat" from making unnecessary trouble if you're in a Police road block...
. . . Idea Keep a"Certified Copy" in your glovebox/console.
Being able to verify the Chassis Number may prevent an "issue" in the first place. Fire Extinguisher


My $0.02¢
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MG Man
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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2012 11:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

the world watches with bated breath..........well me anyway Mr. Green
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Sanctifier
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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2012 3:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the kind words MG.

with bated breath... Oh, Oh! I better not screw up on this one! Laughing
Just remember MG... *Start up - Jan 2013*... and it'll take at least 36-42 months... with luck (& $$$.) Smile
Sanctifier wrote:
This isn't GroceryGetter but these sample pix will give you a rough idea about the kind of DIY bodywork involved:
ADD---> Steam cleaning, Media blasting, Electrolysis, Phosphate treatment and FoamSeal to remove ALL rust and delay
future corrosion for as many years (decades) as possible because I REALLY don't want to have to do this again! Rolling Eyes
left - "Before"......... right - "After."





Sanctifier wrote:
In addition to the body work, the mounting points (and "gusseting" req'd) for the independant rear suspension
also have to be installed in order to get to this point...


Sanctifier wrote:
Then on to converting a transverse 4G93 for use with an in-line 5-speed box... and installing it!...
(Drive-line Phasing for accurate Engine Mount fabrication and reduced vibrations...
Oil-pan: "front-to-rear" sump swap?... Thermostat: relocate outlet "rear-to-front"... Custom downpipe & Exhaust...
Custom gear-box Bell-housing/Adapter plate... Hybrid wiring harness etc.)


Next up: "Custom" front suspension... and front & rear adapter plates for Brembo calipers...

All of the above (& more) req'd in the "1st build" to "Test Drive" the car in order to troubleshoot everything!...

Strip everything for the final Underseal... FoamSeal... and Paint job...

Then reassemble!
The 1st Build (Bodywork & Mechanicals) will be the most challenging (and longest) stages... Head on Wall
The final Prep & Paint... and the Reassembly stages will be the most boring... Rolling Eyes
Should be "interesting!" Laughing
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Last edited by Sanctifier on Tue Aug 07, 2012 12:37 pm; edited 4 times in total
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Conrad
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 03, 2012 1:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Subscribed
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Sanctifier
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2012 5:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm going to try an additional "Rust Proofing" method too..

Both cars are almost 30 YEARS OLD! To prevent new corrosion for as long as possible, even the "new" shell needs
a full rotisserie restoration to stop future rust.
The only ways to get between the spot-welded seams & panels... and inside the chassis rails to stop rust are...
(1) E-coating: (Not available locally)...
(2) Electrolysis: (I'm going to try this!)...and
(3) Weld/Bonding: (I'll be doing this too!)
Sanctifier wrote:
"Examples"...



Dissecting the GSR's shell like that will also give me the chance to Weld/Bond ALL the panels when fixing them into place...
(ie. Actually "rust-proof" BETWEEN the seams!... Exactly where rust starts in the first place!)

WELD/BONDING... "Adhesive Panel Bonding" is actually stronger than OEM spot-welding...


Doing BOTH is even better...


Sanctifier wrote:
After that I intend to do this as well...
Before the paint job, I'll "stitch-weld" the entire shell...
Media Blast: Chassis - Black Diamond... Body panels - Baking Soda.
Fill ALL the chassis rails, boxed panels, etc. with FoamSeal (2lb. & 8lb.)...
Apply Seam Sealer, etc.
Then Body Prep & Paint.

Doing all that will give me---> Stiffer chassis = Better handling... Quicker "Turn-in"... and Smoother Ride.
Also---> FoamSeal = No air pockets = No Moisture = NO RUST!... the body-shell should last for YEARS!
It also reduces "Noise, Vibration & Harshness" issues too, giving me a quiet, comfortable ride.

That should keep the restored GSR bodyshell going for another 30 years! Laughing

My $0.02¢
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cutthroatInt
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 3:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Subscribed sanctifier...

good luck wit the project.

how far did you reach with the IRS install?
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Sanctifier
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 6:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

^ ^ ^ Thanks for the kind words cutthroat. Start-up for GroceryGetter = 01/2013...
I have to get my Evo 6 maintenance finished first and back on the road by December. ($$$ and Time!)

Right now, I'm trying to buy a used Car-O-liner Measuring System from a seller in the US...


Also if I'm lucky in getting Mitsubishi frame data (hunting right now); I'll be able to get ZERO alignment errors with the Mitsubishi Starion rear floor-pan installation.
Used together with the rotisserie (see above) and frame machine (coming soon); it'll be like using the original factory jigs for both models.

The rear floorpan, "A" pillars/Cowl area and Rear parcel Shelf/Inner Wheel-house areas are the hardest parts of the job.
Once that's done, the IRS is a straight bolt-in job since all the bits (and floor) came from the 'California' Starion (above.)
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cutthroatInt
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 10:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i still hav the designs of the rotiserrie u mailed me yrs ago.
but havnt gotten around to making it yet.

may do so in the near future as my lil projek is gettin on the way.

where u based? wanna come check out some of ur work.. esp the rotis build.
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Sanctifier
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2012 3:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

^ ^ ^ I'm in Petit Valley... call Wade at 684-4552.

I had to draw the line somewhere. With three projects lined up and each one getting more and more detailed, it wasn't
practical to try to build all the jigs and tools that I needed. I ended up buying a Whirly Jig rotisserie a while ago.

User friendly... Easy to store... Even more important, if you 'dissect' the shell as much as I plan to... or do any quarter panel work,
then "Chassis Droop" becomes a serious issue. You MUST support the shell properly to avoid future suspension alignment problems...

AFAIK this is the only rotisserie available with this option (above.) It costs a lot of $$$ but it gets the job done.
It would take a novice like me MONTHS to build one exactly like this. That's why I bought it.
Using the Car-O-Mech measuring system (if I get it) with this will be the icing on the cake. Cool

My $0.02¢
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 27, 2012 6:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

UPDATE: Used Car-O-Mech purchase:
1st attempt (Texas - $800 + $200 Crating) - This buy (5-06-12) fell through (parts missing from unit)...

2nd attempt (Illinois - $900 + $50 Crating) - (27-06-12) Waiting for feedback on this refurbished, powder coated unit in a few days...
Nope, unfortunately the frame machine isn't included @ that price Laughing ... but the Storage Case is! Cool


Added 2 x pairs of Unibody Pinch-weld Clamps this week to the ToyRoom's arsenal in preperation for the "build."
.........
The normal way to mount the bodyshell is to bolt on a number of "uni-body" brackets; which are bolted to the rotisserie's support arms.
Expensive to buy/Time consuming to make... and NOT very efficient IMHO.

Instead, I'll fabricate a simple jig (secondary chassis) to mount the body-shell to the rotisserie...

IMHO this is the simplest/strongest way to mount uni-body cars in a rotisserie.
No special brackets/adaptors needed. No hanging the shell directly off the rotisserie without adequate (any?) chassis support.
Both jigs bolt directly to the rotisserie... and the bodyshell is supported by the jigs.
"Pinch-weld Chassis Jig" supports Uni-body + "Whirly Jig Upper Brace" (previous post) eliminates "sag" = NO "Chassis Droop"... PERIOD! Cool

"Pinch-weld supports" also serve as a "Car-dolly" to make the bodyshell mobile in my very small ToyRoom. Cool ...
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Last edited by Sanctifier on Tue May 07, 2013 5:04 pm; edited 5 times in total
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Sanctifier
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Joined: 07 Apr 2005
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Location: Good question!

PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 10:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

EQUIPMENT UPDATE: I scored this two days ago... EDIT: 19/07/12 - It's in Miami... To arrive on 23-07-12... IT'S HERE!.. and in FANTASTIC condition for a used unit! Cool

The Car-O-Mech Measuring System will eliminate any rear suspension misalignment issues and should solve a lot of other headaches as well.

Idea I also got another "chassis-mounting" idea from the DriftWorks build of a Volvo 245 GT-D...

So now I'm also looking for the following:
1) A complete set of old Car-O-Liner FRAME DATA MANUALS... or an "expired" Car-O-Soft DVD (with KEY) if available.

2) Car-O-Liner's M900 Upper Body Measuring System...

Quote:
M910 Basic Upper Body System + M920 Lateral Arm kit + M930 Monopod Arm for symmetrical checking.

3) An older Car-O-Liner Mark 3 / Mark 4 Bench (frame machine)...
Quote:
With 1 (or 2) Drawer-Aligner(s)... Pulling Attachments... 3rd pair Pinch-weld Clamps...
Pull-down Attachment... High-lift Jack Frame Brackets... etc.

The Car-O-liner, Car-O-Mech and M900 will give me the accuracy needed for the build... and the rotisserie will speed up disassembling the "donor" car.
Keeping my fingers crossed... Pray
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MG Man
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Joined: 19 May 2005
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 26, 2012 9:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

awesome toys!
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