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Daily Driver......... :oops:
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wagonrunner
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Joined: 03 Sep 2005
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2009 1:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Roll down the windows n take some breeze

my dearest apologies young fella. but the ambiance of the beetham landfill is not on my list of daily requirements.
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zodiaque
Dude where's my Car?


Joined: 06 Apr 2005
Posts: 602

PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 7:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

wagonrunner wrote:
Quote:
Roll down the windows n take some breeze

my dearest apologies young fella. but the ambiance of the beetham landfill is not on my list of daily requirements.

Ent! especially when i have wind in meh belly and I eh eat breakfast yet.
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wagonrunner
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 10:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

1st highway drive this morning, and cooling issue seems to be resolved.
i'm still contemplating going with a metal radiator. might tackle that depending on what this month's income vs Cherokee gas bill looks like.

things observed.
*when it is working properly, even after normal driving, i can safely put my hand on the radiator panel. previously couldn't as there was hot.

*my temperature needle flickered erratically while there was this issue.
the head was removed, gasket changed, and replaced. no wiring changes were made, yet temp gauge now stays steady.

*car idle dropped to almost stall speed regularly, has not happened since.

the most noticeable was the temperature in the engine bay.
the strangest was the temperature sensor.
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zodiaque
Dude where's my Car?


Joined: 06 Apr 2005
Posts: 602

PostPosted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 10:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

wagonrunner wrote:
1st highway drive this morning, and cooling issue seems to be resolved.
i'm still contemplating going with a metal radiator. might tackle that depending on what this month's income vs Cherokee gas bill looks like.

things observed.
*when it is working properly, even after normal driving, i can safely put my hand on the radiator panel. previously couldn't as there was hot.

*my temperature needle flickered erratically while there was this issue.
the head was removed, gasket changed, and replaced. no wiring changes were made, yet temp gauge now stays steady.

*car idle dropped to almost stall speed regularly, has not happened since.

the most noticeable was the temperature in the engine bay.
the strangest was the temperature sensor.

nice to see that it worked out man. Metal radiator is not essential, but it is a good upgrade. Running that in the CK4 years now and it has never given probs *knock on wood*
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wagonrunner
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 9:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

VK-Sportsman wrote:
Btw, have you ever cleaned your MAF?
I'm looking all over for this and nobody seems to have it http://www.crcindustries.com/auto/content/prod_detail.aspx?S=Y&PN=05110

Forgive the late response.............. but nope i've never cleaned it using any such product.
My solution was wiping the inside of the intake pipe, and spraying some carb spray down the TB with it partially open and engine running.
Looking at the page, the description says Electrical Cleaner, so any equivalent (used for cleaning computer / electrical components) will do the trick.

On another note, gearbox mount.
It's been in since the swap, but of late felt something was not quite right. Twisting on clutch release, etc.
Got one from Reyos (used, rubber was busted), so carried it to Sasco, and asked them to redo it in the tougher compound, and not make it solid.
I installed it on saturday. didn't realize my craftsman tools were so strong.
Marked improvement in vehicle feel, and you can tell why looking at the original (bent / broken) mount. Seems i was still driving with battle (June 2007) scars.



But here's where Sasco screwed the pooch.
They removed the bump stop which will restrict the mount from rotating freely. And they made those gaps too wide, almost like a lazy man wuk. They have done better jobs than this before, using smaller inserts.

So plan is to locate an FU mount, in good shape, and see if i can find some Energy Suspension inserts for it.
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wagonrunner
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 8:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm looking for a set of H4 Bulbs. i like the Sylvania Ultras (White lights), but they last 8months to 2 years, and i do a lot of night driving.
Anything with similar visibility, and longer lasting will be considered. Especially if the price is right.
Any suggestions?
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wagonrunner
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 12:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

maintenance is no routine now, even the bigger jobs don't seem noteworthy.

Shocks-
been experiencing the occasional hit, and violent shimmy in the steering.
spent some time looking for it myself. found worn steering ends.
changed those, and had the suspension checked out. good bill of health on the underside.
put the wheels back on the ground, and told them check the shocks.
one was a basketball, one was near dribble.
got them changed out (Kayaba 33020 i think). and can't believe I didn't notice the difference before. Embarassed
still have to get alignment and camber rechecked, but so far, excellent improvement.

I actually can't pin when the car stopped shooting over bumps, instead of swaying..

Rear wheel bearing:
well the other side was due for replacement.
found it easily enough in the bamboo, and learned something.
there are two sizes of brake drums in the Y10 model.
there is the smaller circumference, wider cylinder (one on my car), and a bigger circumference (narrow cylinder). seems mine is a bit of a rarity, though the nissan laurel (c32) may be the same.
they already share brake shoes. (am now pondering if the c32 was 4 or 5 hole. might be the easy way to change rims.

Anyway, very easily changed. Happens when you're a compulsive bargain shopper of Automotive tools Embarassed
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MG Man
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 10:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

suspension huh.........so Karl basically you have an EPR car now?
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VK-Sportsman
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 4:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

^, sooner or later he'll be in OPEN class Roll on Floor laughing

btw Karl, don't think there's anything better than Silverstars when it comes to cost
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wagonrunner
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 6:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MG Man wrote:
suspension huh.........so Karl basically you have an EPR car now?

yup Kayaba OEM replacement is simply not sportsmanlike.
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wagonrunner
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 04, 2010 12:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Riddle me this.


Is it normal for ignition timing to jump that much when engine is idling?
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wagonrunner
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 28, 2010 3:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

changed rims, aligned and cambered by roop.
- developed a pull to the right.

went by MM, they reset everything to 0.0 factory specs.
- car still has pull to the right though not as strong.

swapped front tires left to right
- car now pulls to the left.

So i've determined its the wheel (rim / tyre) combination.

problem is, i dont want the tires at the back @ the front.

what are the odds it's the rim, and not the tyre?
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Red Dawg
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Joined: 07 Apr 2005
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 29, 2010 9:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

In all my years as a Master technician and an alignment technician, I have never heard of a rim causing a steering pull.
It is a common symptom of irregular tyre wear.
the tyres are either uneven in height or they have a conical wear which causes a pull.
please note that the roads have a slight crown to the shoulder which also causes pull symptoms to the left.
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wagonrunner
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 29, 2010 6:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dawgie, im well beyond road camber.
regardless of which way the road runs-off, the pull is to whichever side that tire is mounted.
wont miscount tire wear, as it has been in the back for some time, cornering.

turned it around on the rim, and it has dissipated somewhat. but didn't get to do a full test as yet.
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MG Man
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 02, 2010 6:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

check and see if the steering wheel is lopsided
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