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THE ASYLUM!... Workshops & Tools for DIY MadMen.
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What's your "take" on tuning?
Do you prefer DIY tuning?
100%
 100%  [ 14 ]
Do you prefer to pay a mechanic and avoid the hassle?
0%
 0%  [ 0 ]
Do you prefer just to buy modified wheels with no work.
0%
 0%  [ 0 ]
Total Votes : 14

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Sanctifier
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 22, 2012 12:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

More on car lifts... The UNIC Strongman 12-volt and BendPak ML-6 portable auto fork-lifts are other flexable alternatives.
Both units are out of production but hopefully are still available on the "used" market (eBay.)
Both have more "head room" (72") than the MaxJax for guys over 6 ft. like me.
Sanctifier wrote:
CAUTION: IMHO I would also use tall axle-stands before standing underneath to work (for better stability & safety.)

This will give me the flexability of using it anywhere in my small (cramped?) ToyRoom...
... or even in the drive-way for high-pressure underbody steam-cleaning which uses less water
and cleans faster & better than hot or cold high-pressure washer... (Trust me, I have all three types.)

I'm hunting a used unit early tomorrow... Hope I get lucky again!

Here's a similar (newer and cheaper) alternative ...

Workhorse MSC-6K Portable Car Lift

Stay Tuned... Wink
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Last edited by Sanctifier on Wed Dec 02, 2015 3:04 pm; edited 2 times in total
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wagonrunner
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 22, 2012 4:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm afraid to froogle the cost. but one of that on the canter's lift could be bloody useful at race events.
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Sanctifier
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 23, 2012 7:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

useful at race events... The Workhorse weighs 1,760 lbs; similar to the Bend Pak/Unic... but the column is 8' 6".

There's a used Unic (leaking seal but new seal kit incl.) for $2500...
Unfortunately "Local pick-up" only. Rolling Eyes

A new Workhorse is $2,799 delivered to my Freight-forwarders in Miami.

I may have to go this way because I called Bend Pak and some of their Main Dealers yesterday... No luck!
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Sanctifier
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 02, 2012 11:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

^ ^ ^ DONE!
Yay!!! At last!... Bow Down My own lift.


Sanctifier wrote:
No more plywood and concrete (grass & mud).
No more lying down on my back with a faceful of muck!
No more losing cars from flood damage (like my wife's Subaru Legacy GT Turbo Wagon in August!) Evil or Very Mad
Quick 'setup' on Car-O-Liner Bench... or Rotisserie. Cool
Best of all, real convenience for a change when doing repairs and servicing... It fits ANYWHERE in the ToyRoom. Very Happy

Access is not as good as a 2-post/4-post lift... but the 5" extension pillars give enough clearance to remove a driveshaft or exhaust if necessary...
Another option... just lower the jack, leaving the car on the tall axle stands... All the clearance in the world!

Also, a 2-post or 4-post lift can only protect ONE car from possible flood damage.
Using A-frames, this can protect them all... With the weather so screwey these days, that's VERY important to me.

EDIT:
Sanctifier wrote:
Damn sure better than cocksure!
Added 4 of these (for additional "Health Insurance") Laughing ...

2-ton Under-hoist stands ... Evo 6 Rotisserie RestoMod started at last Exclamation

My
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Last edited by Sanctifier on Wed Dec 02, 2015 3:12 pm; edited 12 times in total
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Sanctifier
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 5:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

^ ^ ^ For those who also have limited room to spare but no floods to worry about, this may be another option...
"2-car" parking in "1-car" space... and full underbody access as well. (Those are removable "drip trays" in the pic)

...............

Link--> Kernel 6,000 LB Single Post Storage Auto Lift.
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Last edited by Sanctifier on Wed Dec 02, 2015 3:21 pm; edited 2 times in total
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Sanctifier
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2012 7:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

UPDATE: Added a few more 'toys' to the ToyRoom over the last few weeks...


........................... Car-O-Mech .................. and M900 3D Measuring Systems...
as well as Car-O-Liner Frame Data Manuals... a dozen or more Mo Clamps... Mo Clamp 'Baby' Tram Gauge... etc. etc.


Autotron Induction Heater (New @ a "killer" eBay price!) Cool
Sanctifier wrote:
A 'stuck' Pitman Arm was so tight that the pickle-fork handle broke when trying to seperate it... Evil or Very Mad
Autotron had it almost red hot in less than 45 seconds... New pickle-fork had absolutely no problems this time! Cool


A Dominator II Master PDR kit...

and a PDR light and other PDR tools. (I intend to do "Paintless Dent Repair" commercially next year.)...

and sundry hand-tools & other bits like a 90deg Outlet...

... for the future DIY Sandblast/Spray-booth...


It's here! It will be delivered next week... Twisted Evil

Car-O-Liner Mk. IV Bench (frame machine) with Two Draw-Aligner Arms & accessories... plus another Car-O-Mech. Cool

It's actually TWO Car-O-Liners & Accessories... plus TWO Car-O-Mech Measuring Systems... 6,931 lbs of steel.

BTW one pair (C-O-L & Car-O-Mech) is already sold!
Sanctifier wrote:
I must say "Thank you!" to Dave Shelby and the guys from Illinois, USA.
Without his generosity and interest in the Project and giving me at a "fire-sale" price,
it would be impossible for me to afford this frame machine.

This is what a Car-O-Liner looks like in action...


Next year should be a lot more FUN! Cool
Sanctifier wrote:
Another really cool 'toy' to speed up and improve autobody weld quality and strength is being crated
for shipment right now. The Car-O-Liner clip will give you a hint.

More on this later... Laughing

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Last edited by Sanctifier on Fri Feb 21, 2014 4:20 am; edited 5 times in total
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Sanctifier
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Location: Good question!

PostPosted: Wed Jan 23, 2013 11:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay time to let the cat out of the bag... I got lucky recently.
I scored a Saitek_Weilander-Schill 490-ATLW water-cooled spot welder at a VERY reasonable price.
If it works well, then "weld-bonding" will be a breeze during the restoration.

It should arrive next week. Trying to install by mid-February if all goes well. 60 amp circuit req'd.
I don't want to 'hard-wire' a "fixed" installation, so I'm hunting a suitable "disconnect" (plug) for it. Suggestions are appreciated.

(Sample pic of "air-cooled" unit)................ ("Parts car" on Car-O-Liner for measurements.)

GroceryGetter is already 2 weeks behind schedule; so hoping to have all other tools & equipment by then too.
M900 upper body measuring system (uprights) should arrive with welder...
Up next, about 2-3 weeks of measurements and drawings... while the GSR gets MoT inspection & sticker.
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Last edited by Sanctifier on Tue Nov 19, 2013 9:39 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Sanctifier
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 16, 2013 2:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been dreaming for YEARS about replacing my Old Man's 1917-1920's South Bend 16/24in Engine lathe...



I still have all his South Bend 16" Attachments so I needed another unit of the same size.
Sanctifier wrote:
Steady rest, Follow rest, Milling Attachment, 3 x 3-jaw chucks, 1 x 4-jaw chuck, 2 x Face plates etc.
Many are rusty from "Flood damage"... but nothing that Electrolysis can't correct.

I finally found a decent one on eBay that I could afford... ACED the Auction! Laughing Laughing
It was used in Welding class(!?!) in a High School, not in a Factory; so hopefully the bed ways aren't too badly worn.
Sanctifier wrote:
SPECIFICATIONS: South Bend CL117-C...
............................ 16" swing, 6' bed, Quick Change Gear, Under Mount Drive-motor
............................ with Taper Attachment, Face plate and Turret Tool-post. Cool



Sanctifier wrote:
I tried to get the 'ways' reground and the Headstock, Saddle & Tailstock epoxied with Moglice in Pennsylvania. (That's where the lathe is located.)...
but that would cost three or four times more than I paid for the lathe. Shocked
Crating will start next week (2,400 lbs.) and should be shipped before the end of the month (I hope!)

Now if only I can find a decent Milling Machine and Surface Grinder on eBay... Cool
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VK-Sportsman
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 11, 2013 10:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Uncle Sanctifier, with your vast knowledge and experience, would you advise to use a 110v Fluxcored Mig Welder to do body repair work.

I've got a 1st gen Vitara that has some "rotten" spots on the flooring and side sills, so my plan is to attempt the repair work myself. Cool
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Sanctifier
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 11, 2013 11:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

...with your vast knowledge and experience... Please! Rolling Eyes I'm no welder my friend. Other 2nrs are far more competent to give an opinion.
For what it's worth ($0.02¢), IMHO a "flux core" MIG is miles better than an Oxy/Acet torch but there are better alternatives... "spot-welding" comes to mind. Best of all, "weld-bonding" offers the best mix of strength and temperature control required by modern metal alloys used in cars today.
......
Link--> Quarter Panel Installation (Weld Bond) - Fusor 108B.

Fluxcored Mig Welder... This may be okay for the floor sections but maybe not for the "thinner" side sills. If that's what you have then use it if the budget doesn't allow for an upgrade. Depending upon the model, decent heat control may still be possible for the side sills... but still use weld-bonding in all areas for corrosion-resistant, water-proof repairs.

If you can afford it, buy a 115V Electric Spot Welder (US $136.00) and some Fusor 111B 1.7oz Metal Patch Panel Adhesive (US $22.00).
This will give you a better quality finish and make the job quicker and stronger too...Eastwood Panel Flanger - Extra Wide. (US $41.00)

You'll have to drill or punch holes in one panel before using the MIG. If you have a compressor this will be quicker & easier than a hand punch or drill... Flanger/Punch Tool Pneumatic 7/32". (US $99.00)


Then go to YouTube for user instructions... and "get down to it."
Please post a thread here on Mitsubishi MadMen with details of the repair. Thanks.

My $0.02¢
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VK-Sportsman
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 11, 2013 8:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well whenever someone comes across this thread and this forum, they would instantly know you're the guy with all the best toys, and surely "knows his stuff". Mr. Green

Anyways, yes I am on a budget as I have to allocate finances to other areas such as electrical, brakes and suspension.

The welder is a Lincoln Electric WeldPak 100.

I was thinking about letting someone do the repairs, but I try my best to do as much DIY as possible as its the only way I learn how to do repairs.
I will be starting on the vehicle by the end of the week and will surely take pictures of progress to post on a thread here. Cool

Thanks for the reply though , it is much appreciated. I have been googling about the topic, and most of other forums are in favour of MIG(Gas) than using Fluxcored MIG for body work.
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Sanctifier
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 22, 2013 8:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

^ ^ ^ Hi Sportsman. Any updates on the bodywork project?
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VK-Sportsman
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 01, 2013 8:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry for the late reply......project has been parked up for a good while, just waiting on a free Sunday to tackle/complete it.
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Sanctifier
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 01, 2013 11:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

^ ^ ^ Yup, been there, doin' that! Rolling Eyes

ALL projects are at a standstill while house renovations from the August 2012 flood are done.
Hoping to strip & ship the E6 gearbox and diff to the US before Xmas for upgrade after this mess is finished.
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VK-Sportsman
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 8:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update on the tools I used for my repair work. Angle grinder with sanding disc to grind the welds. Used a paint remover wheel for a drill to "sand" the flooring, the sound-deadening was removed with a hammer and a flat head screwdriver.
Rustoleum & HB Body etch primer, and final coating with Rustoleum Truck bed liner (pics to follow)





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