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Sanctifier
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Joined: 07 Apr 2005
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 Posted: Sat Mar 15, 2008 6:20 pm Post subject: HARD NUTS!... Solid Engineering for Mechanical Nightmares. |
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Just like the title says. Here we'll list unusual, difficult problems... and possible
solutions for them.
Introducing... HARD NUTS!... Solid Engineering for Mechanical Nightmares.
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Last edited by Sanctifier on Sat Mar 15, 2008 6:33 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Sanctifier
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| Posted: Sat Mar 15, 2008 6:21 pm Post subject: |
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#1: CAPTIVE NUT REPAIR...
| frantic 2nr wrote: | | fellas, my ck have one of the crossmember nuts stripped, so how the arse i getting that fixed? |
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Last edited by Sanctifier on Thu Aug 05, 2010 4:33 am; edited 5 times in total |
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Sanctifier
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Joined: 07 Apr 2005
Posts: 1429
Location: Good question!
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| Posted: Sat Mar 15, 2008 6:22 pm Post subject: |
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For captive nut repair. (no access from other side.) NB: I only recommend option #3.
Easiest (fragile) option:
| Quote: | Not sure if that size is available locally and its awkward but easiest... but Heli-Coil
insert is a quick fix. Check engineering supply/tool company. Too flimsy for use here IMHO. |
Worst (brutal) option:
| Quote: | Arc weld hole solid... re-drill... tap hole.
Use special high-tensile rod if possible. |
Best option:
| Sanctifier wrote: |  Remove paint from area with wire-wheel.
Cut hole on reverse side with cup-saw.
Remove captive nuts by grinding off weldments with die grinder and air hammer.
Grind mating surface smooth.
Reweld replacement nuts.
Reweld metal removed by cup-saw.
Repaint. |
Link--> Captive Subframe Nut Repair FAQ.
Last but not least... Video of Captive Nut Repair:
Last edited by Sanctifier on Sat Mar 15, 2008 6:49 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Sanctifier
Zorce Moderator
Joined: 07 Apr 2005
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| Posted: Sat Mar 15, 2008 6:43 pm Post subject: |
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Oh, Mods don't move this thread please.
Link or copy to "Engineering" aka ZORCEology if necessary. Thanks.
BTW let me get some practice...  ... 
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Sanctifier
Zorce Moderator
Joined: 07 Apr 2005
Posts: 1429
Location: Good question!
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| Posted: Mon Mar 31, 2008 9:17 am Post subject: |
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| frantic 2nr wrote: | | problem solved, fella in grande removed the crossmember and rethreaded the nut, and replaced with a bigger bolt. No cutting! |
The only problem with that "fix" is that the old nut is taking the same load (force) as before...
but now the "wall thickness" of the nut is MUCH thinner than it was...
Tapping new threads removes at least TWICE the thickness of the original thread depth.
Now its weaker and might break. That's why I suggested a HeliCoil insert (#1) instead.
Hope it works.
My $0.02˘
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sidewayz69
Young-ling
Joined: 19 Nov 2008
Posts: 19
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| Posted: Mon Nov 24, 2008 8:53 pm Post subject: |
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ok but heli coil is quite expensive
good research there |
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Sanctifier
Zorce Moderator
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Posts: 1429
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| Posted: Sat Dec 13, 2008 7:41 am Post subject: |
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^ ^ ^ Yup, helicoil insert may be expensive. May cost almost as much as "best fix" (option 3.)
but how much to fix if the thinner nut fails and maybe causes an accident?
| Sanctifier wrote: | "Damn sure" better than "Cocksure"...  |
Safer (& Cheaper) in the long run too, IMHO.
My $0.02˘
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Sanctifier
Zorce Moderator
Joined: 07 Apr 2005
Posts: 1429
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| Posted: Sat Jul 31, 2010 4:29 am Post subject: |
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CHAPTER 2: BODYWORK... Rocker-panel Replacement.
This is the most attempted area of repair/restoration attempted by owners of ol' school rides...
Welding: ...The very idea scares the sh!t out of most diy tuners, so they immediately turn to the nearest "Fred-in-the-shed" for cheap assistance. Poor "Fred"... 9 out of 10 2nrs want as cheap a repair as possible...but still insist on "Concours d’Elegance" levels of craftsmanship. What is Fred to do?... | Fred wrote: | Use the cheapest material and quickest "shortcuts" available...while trying to appear as "professional" as possible...and promise the (unwitting "sucker") err "customer" a discount on the "buss head" bill... "as iz you."...  |
Here's another method...
Body Preparation: Here's one method that will ensure a durable repair... | Sanctifier wrote: | . Remove rusted rocker panel... Try using air tools instead of a welding torch, to avoid perforating the old, underlying metal...or causing a FIRE in oil-soaked sound-deadening material...or in old carpet...through unseen holes in the floor. 
. After removal of rusty rocker-panel...Remove old sound-deadening material (if any) and ALL grunge and rust from sub-panel.
. Use a chemical de-rusting agent..."Wonder" is perfect.
. Allow to dry...Prime with Red oxide or Zinc Cromate Yellow, etc.
. Coat with 3M Body Shutz and allow to dry... |
Repair...
. One modern method is shown here...
...
More "Bodywork Restoration Issues" to come...
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Last edited by Sanctifier on Thu Aug 05, 2010 4:33 am; edited 2 times in total |
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MG Man
Zorce Klingon Warrior
Joined: 19 May 2005
Posts: 2552
Location: usually on the back page
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| Posted: Sat Jul 31, 2010 8:17 pm Post subject: |
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good stuff there
Rocker panel replacement is common among MG owners
One mistake I have seen supposed professionals do is remove BOTH rocker panels at the same time. In a monocoque chassis, this is a HUGE no-no, as the rockers give the bodyshell its longitudinal rigidity. Removing both rockers can make your car go all banana shaped........
Another common short cut is to just cut and replace the outer skin. Typically, rocker panels comprise a complete hollow section tube, sometimes containing a stiffening metal 'membrane' inside. Typically if you see surface rust, it's worse on the inside. Patching the outer sill is simply covering up a potential structural failure waiting to happen...
It is also advisable to weld a brace across door apertures BEFORE removing a sill, to ensure the car stays in shape
When welding in new sills, a good set of welding clamps is essential for holding panels together tightly. Relying on a friend to press panels together does not always work, especially when said friend gets tired, or turns around to check out the skirt passing outside...........clamps come in a vast array, working on the vise grip principle, and are worth the investment, as is a good MIG welder
Over to you, Unkle Sanctifier
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Sanctifier
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Posts: 1429
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| Posted: Sun Aug 01, 2010 12:36 pm Post subject: |
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Great addtional info, MG. If you don't mind, I'd like to edit and include this in a new "Tech" thread that I'm working on at the moment... I'll give you the by-line, of course. 
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MG Man
Zorce Klingon Warrior
Joined: 19 May 2005
Posts: 2552
Location: usually on the back page
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| Posted: Mon Aug 02, 2010 5:11 pm Post subject: |
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no prob
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